What are the disadvantages of having an old, worn cogset?
I'm always a little weary of people telling me I should replace things on my bicycle that aren't broken. Because of this, I'd like to know details and symptoms about what happens if I ride my bike with an older, worn cogset? Do I lose efficiency? How much? Is there higher potential for breakage? Do my gears skip?
FYI, the answer to this question should be about the same as answering these similar questions:
- "What are the benefits of replacing an older, worn cogset?"
- "What
symptoms will my bike exhibit that means I have to replace my
cogset/casset/sprocket?"
sprocket wear
add a comment |
I'm always a little weary of people telling me I should replace things on my bicycle that aren't broken. Because of this, I'd like to know details and symptoms about what happens if I ride my bike with an older, worn cogset? Do I lose efficiency? How much? Is there higher potential for breakage? Do my gears skip?
FYI, the answer to this question should be about the same as answering these similar questions:
- "What are the benefits of replacing an older, worn cogset?"
- "What
symptoms will my bike exhibit that means I have to replace my
cogset/casset/sprocket?"
sprocket wear
1
You'll get worse shifting, more noise, "jumping" off the chainrings, and, eventually, either chain jamming (when it "grabs" the chainring) or chain breakage. And of course, cog wear is worse.
– Daniel R Hicks
6 hours ago
add a comment |
I'm always a little weary of people telling me I should replace things on my bicycle that aren't broken. Because of this, I'd like to know details and symptoms about what happens if I ride my bike with an older, worn cogset? Do I lose efficiency? How much? Is there higher potential for breakage? Do my gears skip?
FYI, the answer to this question should be about the same as answering these similar questions:
- "What are the benefits of replacing an older, worn cogset?"
- "What
symptoms will my bike exhibit that means I have to replace my
cogset/casset/sprocket?"
sprocket wear
I'm always a little weary of people telling me I should replace things on my bicycle that aren't broken. Because of this, I'd like to know details and symptoms about what happens if I ride my bike with an older, worn cogset? Do I lose efficiency? How much? Is there higher potential for breakage? Do my gears skip?
FYI, the answer to this question should be about the same as answering these similar questions:
- "What are the benefits of replacing an older, worn cogset?"
- "What
symptoms will my bike exhibit that means I have to replace my
cogset/casset/sprocket?"
sprocket wear
sprocket wear
asked 10 hours ago
biketoeverything.com
1948
1948
1
You'll get worse shifting, more noise, "jumping" off the chainrings, and, eventually, either chain jamming (when it "grabs" the chainring) or chain breakage. And of course, cog wear is worse.
– Daniel R Hicks
6 hours ago
add a comment |
1
You'll get worse shifting, more noise, "jumping" off the chainrings, and, eventually, either chain jamming (when it "grabs" the chainring) or chain breakage. And of course, cog wear is worse.
– Daniel R Hicks
6 hours ago
1
1
You'll get worse shifting, more noise, "jumping" off the chainrings, and, eventually, either chain jamming (when it "grabs" the chainring) or chain breakage. And of course, cog wear is worse.
– Daniel R Hicks
6 hours ago
You'll get worse shifting, more noise, "jumping" off the chainrings, and, eventually, either chain jamming (when it "grabs" the chainring) or chain breakage. And of course, cog wear is worse.
– Daniel R Hicks
6 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
If your sprockets are worn your chain is probably worn too. A worn drivetrain will suffer from poor shift shifting and with advanced wear, the chain skipping over the sprockets. A worn chain is also more likely to break.
A worn drivetrain will definitely be less efficient although I can't point you to anything that quantifies how much. How worn you can let the drivetrain really depends on what kind of riding you are doing. If you are riding casually and don't care how fast you go you will be able to tolerate more wear.
add a comment |
Sloppier shifting, faster chain wear. In extreme cases you'll get chain skipping.
add a comment |
As a chain wears out, the distance between links gets bigger (this is what chain wear tools measure). As this is happening, the chain will grind the cogs to match the worn chain (distance between teeth increases). This is why your gears might not feel so bad, but then they get much worse when you put on a new chain. The new chain's links do not line up with the teeth on the cogs. This will be noticeable in a few ways depending on how worn the cogs are.
First is the noise coming the drivetrain and no amount of lube will silence it. The next one will be shifting performance as you find the chain getting stuck on a cog more often. If the cogs are extremely worn, you'll then get slippage as the chain slides forward over the cog (staying on the same cog, not shifting) when you put pressure on the pedals. This last one can actually be a safety hazard as you might fall if you are out of the saddle pushing, then suddenly the drivetrain lets go (it feels similar to a broken chain when it happens).
Based on this, you might think that it's a good idea to keep the worn chain on for as long as possible, but that will lead to much faster wear on other components as well. Chainrings and jockey wheels rarely need replacing on a well-maintained drivetrain, but if the chain is too worn, then it will grind into these just like the cogs, making it a much more expensive replacement. Many people replace their cassette and chain at the same time once the chain length is 1% longer than when new. This ensures that you won't put excessive wear on the chainrings and jockey wheels.
I prefer to replace my chain at 0.75% which allows me to keep the cassette for about 5-6 chains. This is cheaper for me since I use Dura Ace and Ultegra cassettes, but if you're using more entry level gear, then it's usuallly cheaper to wear them out together and replace them both at once.
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
If your sprockets are worn your chain is probably worn too. A worn drivetrain will suffer from poor shift shifting and with advanced wear, the chain skipping over the sprockets. A worn chain is also more likely to break.
A worn drivetrain will definitely be less efficient although I can't point you to anything that quantifies how much. How worn you can let the drivetrain really depends on what kind of riding you are doing. If you are riding casually and don't care how fast you go you will be able to tolerate more wear.
add a comment |
If your sprockets are worn your chain is probably worn too. A worn drivetrain will suffer from poor shift shifting and with advanced wear, the chain skipping over the sprockets. A worn chain is also more likely to break.
A worn drivetrain will definitely be less efficient although I can't point you to anything that quantifies how much. How worn you can let the drivetrain really depends on what kind of riding you are doing. If you are riding casually and don't care how fast you go you will be able to tolerate more wear.
add a comment |
If your sprockets are worn your chain is probably worn too. A worn drivetrain will suffer from poor shift shifting and with advanced wear, the chain skipping over the sprockets. A worn chain is also more likely to break.
A worn drivetrain will definitely be less efficient although I can't point you to anything that quantifies how much. How worn you can let the drivetrain really depends on what kind of riding you are doing. If you are riding casually and don't care how fast you go you will be able to tolerate more wear.
If your sprockets are worn your chain is probably worn too. A worn drivetrain will suffer from poor shift shifting and with advanced wear, the chain skipping over the sprockets. A worn chain is also more likely to break.
A worn drivetrain will definitely be less efficient although I can't point you to anything that quantifies how much. How worn you can let the drivetrain really depends on what kind of riding you are doing. If you are riding casually and don't care how fast you go you will be able to tolerate more wear.
edited 3 hours ago
RoboKaren
23k755133
23k755133
answered 6 hours ago
Argenti Apparatus
32.8k23483
32.8k23483
add a comment |
add a comment |
Sloppier shifting, faster chain wear. In extreme cases you'll get chain skipping.
add a comment |
Sloppier shifting, faster chain wear. In extreme cases you'll get chain skipping.
add a comment |
Sloppier shifting, faster chain wear. In extreme cases you'll get chain skipping.
Sloppier shifting, faster chain wear. In extreme cases you'll get chain skipping.
answered 6 hours ago
JMP
42623
42623
add a comment |
add a comment |
As a chain wears out, the distance between links gets bigger (this is what chain wear tools measure). As this is happening, the chain will grind the cogs to match the worn chain (distance between teeth increases). This is why your gears might not feel so bad, but then they get much worse when you put on a new chain. The new chain's links do not line up with the teeth on the cogs. This will be noticeable in a few ways depending on how worn the cogs are.
First is the noise coming the drivetrain and no amount of lube will silence it. The next one will be shifting performance as you find the chain getting stuck on a cog more often. If the cogs are extremely worn, you'll then get slippage as the chain slides forward over the cog (staying on the same cog, not shifting) when you put pressure on the pedals. This last one can actually be a safety hazard as you might fall if you are out of the saddle pushing, then suddenly the drivetrain lets go (it feels similar to a broken chain when it happens).
Based on this, you might think that it's a good idea to keep the worn chain on for as long as possible, but that will lead to much faster wear on other components as well. Chainrings and jockey wheels rarely need replacing on a well-maintained drivetrain, but if the chain is too worn, then it will grind into these just like the cogs, making it a much more expensive replacement. Many people replace their cassette and chain at the same time once the chain length is 1% longer than when new. This ensures that you won't put excessive wear on the chainrings and jockey wheels.
I prefer to replace my chain at 0.75% which allows me to keep the cassette for about 5-6 chains. This is cheaper for me since I use Dura Ace and Ultegra cassettes, but if you're using more entry level gear, then it's usuallly cheaper to wear them out together and replace them both at once.
add a comment |
As a chain wears out, the distance between links gets bigger (this is what chain wear tools measure). As this is happening, the chain will grind the cogs to match the worn chain (distance between teeth increases). This is why your gears might not feel so bad, but then they get much worse when you put on a new chain. The new chain's links do not line up with the teeth on the cogs. This will be noticeable in a few ways depending on how worn the cogs are.
First is the noise coming the drivetrain and no amount of lube will silence it. The next one will be shifting performance as you find the chain getting stuck on a cog more often. If the cogs are extremely worn, you'll then get slippage as the chain slides forward over the cog (staying on the same cog, not shifting) when you put pressure on the pedals. This last one can actually be a safety hazard as you might fall if you are out of the saddle pushing, then suddenly the drivetrain lets go (it feels similar to a broken chain when it happens).
Based on this, you might think that it's a good idea to keep the worn chain on for as long as possible, but that will lead to much faster wear on other components as well. Chainrings and jockey wheels rarely need replacing on a well-maintained drivetrain, but if the chain is too worn, then it will grind into these just like the cogs, making it a much more expensive replacement. Many people replace their cassette and chain at the same time once the chain length is 1% longer than when new. This ensures that you won't put excessive wear on the chainrings and jockey wheels.
I prefer to replace my chain at 0.75% which allows me to keep the cassette for about 5-6 chains. This is cheaper for me since I use Dura Ace and Ultegra cassettes, but if you're using more entry level gear, then it's usuallly cheaper to wear them out together and replace them both at once.
add a comment |
As a chain wears out, the distance between links gets bigger (this is what chain wear tools measure). As this is happening, the chain will grind the cogs to match the worn chain (distance between teeth increases). This is why your gears might not feel so bad, but then they get much worse when you put on a new chain. The new chain's links do not line up with the teeth on the cogs. This will be noticeable in a few ways depending on how worn the cogs are.
First is the noise coming the drivetrain and no amount of lube will silence it. The next one will be shifting performance as you find the chain getting stuck on a cog more often. If the cogs are extremely worn, you'll then get slippage as the chain slides forward over the cog (staying on the same cog, not shifting) when you put pressure on the pedals. This last one can actually be a safety hazard as you might fall if you are out of the saddle pushing, then suddenly the drivetrain lets go (it feels similar to a broken chain when it happens).
Based on this, you might think that it's a good idea to keep the worn chain on for as long as possible, but that will lead to much faster wear on other components as well. Chainrings and jockey wheels rarely need replacing on a well-maintained drivetrain, but if the chain is too worn, then it will grind into these just like the cogs, making it a much more expensive replacement. Many people replace their cassette and chain at the same time once the chain length is 1% longer than when new. This ensures that you won't put excessive wear on the chainrings and jockey wheels.
I prefer to replace my chain at 0.75% which allows me to keep the cassette for about 5-6 chains. This is cheaper for me since I use Dura Ace and Ultegra cassettes, but if you're using more entry level gear, then it's usuallly cheaper to wear them out together and replace them both at once.
As a chain wears out, the distance between links gets bigger (this is what chain wear tools measure). As this is happening, the chain will grind the cogs to match the worn chain (distance between teeth increases). This is why your gears might not feel so bad, but then they get much worse when you put on a new chain. The new chain's links do not line up with the teeth on the cogs. This will be noticeable in a few ways depending on how worn the cogs are.
First is the noise coming the drivetrain and no amount of lube will silence it. The next one will be shifting performance as you find the chain getting stuck on a cog more often. If the cogs are extremely worn, you'll then get slippage as the chain slides forward over the cog (staying on the same cog, not shifting) when you put pressure on the pedals. This last one can actually be a safety hazard as you might fall if you are out of the saddle pushing, then suddenly the drivetrain lets go (it feels similar to a broken chain when it happens).
Based on this, you might think that it's a good idea to keep the worn chain on for as long as possible, but that will lead to much faster wear on other components as well. Chainrings and jockey wheels rarely need replacing on a well-maintained drivetrain, but if the chain is too worn, then it will grind into these just like the cogs, making it a much more expensive replacement. Many people replace their cassette and chain at the same time once the chain length is 1% longer than when new. This ensures that you won't put excessive wear on the chainrings and jockey wheels.
I prefer to replace my chain at 0.75% which allows me to keep the cassette for about 5-6 chains. This is cheaper for me since I use Dura Ace and Ultegra cassettes, but if you're using more entry level gear, then it's usuallly cheaper to wear them out together and replace them both at once.
answered 2 hours ago
Carbon side up
979213
979213
add a comment |
add a comment |
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You'll get worse shifting, more noise, "jumping" off the chainrings, and, eventually, either chain jamming (when it "grabs" the chainring) or chain breakage. And of course, cog wear is worse.
– Daniel R Hicks
6 hours ago