Is this a case of ground loop?











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I'm trying to power a 12V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema










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  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    21 hours ago






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    20 hours ago










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    13 hours ago















up vote
8
down vote

favorite
2












I'm trying to power a 12V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema










share|improve this question







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  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    21 hours ago






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    20 hours ago










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    13 hours ago













up vote
8
down vote

favorite
2









up vote
8
down vote

favorite
2






2





I'm trying to power a 12V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema










share|improve this question







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A. Clement is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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I'm trying to power a 12V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema







arduino batteries dc-motor h-bridge groundloops






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asked 22 hours ago









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  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    21 hours ago






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    20 hours ago










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    13 hours ago














  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    21 hours ago






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    20 hours ago










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    13 hours ago








4




4




I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
– Rev1.0
21 hours ago




I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
– Rev1.0
21 hours ago




1




1




Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
– winny
20 hours ago




Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
– winny
20 hours ago












Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
– Peter Bennett
13 hours ago




Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
– Peter Bennett
13 hours ago










3 Answers
3






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up vote
16
down vote













Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
enter image description here



Always use fuses with batteries.



Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
enter image description here





Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






share|improve this answer





















  • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
    – Stian Yttervik
    20 hours ago






  • 2




    Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
    – Jasen
    19 hours ago










  • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
    – patstew
    15 hours ago










  • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
    – Stian Yttervik
    15 hours ago










  • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
    – pipe
    14 hours ago


















up vote
2
down vote













There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



I would suggest the following:
1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






share|improve this answer




























    up vote
    0
    down vote













    Change the ground and power wire of the Arduino to the other battery. Now your ground for the Arduino is 12 V and power 24V






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      3 Answers
      3






      active

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      3 Answers
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      up vote
      16
      down vote













      Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
      enter image description here



      Always use fuses with batteries.



      Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
      enter image description here





      Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






      share|improve this answer





















      • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
        – Stian Yttervik
        20 hours ago






      • 2




        Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
        – Jasen
        19 hours ago










      • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
        – patstew
        15 hours ago










      • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
        – Stian Yttervik
        15 hours ago










      • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
        – pipe
        14 hours ago















      up vote
      16
      down vote













      Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
      enter image description here



      Always use fuses with batteries.



      Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
      enter image description here





      Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






      share|improve this answer





















      • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
        – Stian Yttervik
        20 hours ago






      • 2




        Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
        – Jasen
        19 hours ago










      • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
        – patstew
        15 hours ago










      • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
        – Stian Yttervik
        15 hours ago










      • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
        – pipe
        14 hours ago













      up vote
      16
      down vote










      up vote
      16
      down vote









      Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
      enter image description here



      Always use fuses with batteries.



      Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
      enter image description here





      Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






      share|improve this answer












      Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
      enter image description here



      Always use fuses with batteries.



      Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
      enter image description here





      Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.







      share|improve this answer












      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer










      answered 21 hours ago









      Jeroen3

      10.6k1546




      10.6k1546












      • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
        – Stian Yttervik
        20 hours ago






      • 2




        Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
        – Jasen
        19 hours ago










      • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
        – patstew
        15 hours ago










      • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
        – Stian Yttervik
        15 hours ago










      • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
        – pipe
        14 hours ago


















      • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
        – Stian Yttervik
        20 hours ago






      • 2




        Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
        – Jasen
        19 hours ago










      • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
        – patstew
        15 hours ago










      • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
        – Stian Yttervik
        15 hours ago










      • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
        – pipe
        14 hours ago
















      Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
      – Stian Yttervik
      20 hours ago




      Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
      – Stian Yttervik
      20 hours ago




      2




      2




      Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
      – Jasen
      19 hours ago




      Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
      – Jasen
      19 hours ago












      @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
      – patstew
      15 hours ago




      @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
      – patstew
      15 hours ago












      @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
      – Stian Yttervik
      15 hours ago




      @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
      – Stian Yttervik
      15 hours ago












      I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
      – pipe
      14 hours ago




      I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
      – pipe
      14 hours ago












      up vote
      2
      down vote













      There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



      The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



      A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



      I would suggest the following:
      1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
      2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



      I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






      share|improve this answer

























        up vote
        2
        down vote













        There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



        The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



        A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



        I would suggest the following:
        1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
        2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



        I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






        share|improve this answer























          up vote
          2
          down vote










          up vote
          2
          down vote









          There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



          The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



          A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



          I would suggest the following:
          1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
          2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



          I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






          share|improve this answer












          There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



          The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



          A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



          I would suggest the following:
          1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
          2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



          I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 14 hours ago









          Oliver Broad

          512




          512






















              up vote
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              down vote













              Change the ground and power wire of the Arduino to the other battery. Now your ground for the Arduino is 12 V and power 24V






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              TemeV is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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                up vote
                0
                down vote













                Change the ground and power wire of the Arduino to the other battery. Now your ground for the Arduino is 12 V and power 24V






                share|improve this answer










                New contributor




                TemeV is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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                  up vote
                  0
                  down vote










                  up vote
                  0
                  down vote









                  Change the ground and power wire of the Arduino to the other battery. Now your ground for the Arduino is 12 V and power 24V






                  share|improve this answer










                  New contributor




                  TemeV is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                  Check out our Code of Conduct.









                  Change the ground and power wire of the Arduino to the other battery. Now your ground for the Arduino is 12 V and power 24V







                  share|improve this answer










                  New contributor




                  TemeV is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer








                  edited 19 hours ago





















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                  answered 21 hours ago









                  TemeV

                  213




                  213




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                  TemeV is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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                      A. Clement is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










                       

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