How do I remove wobble from my DIY table?
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I made this table:
This is how the legs are attached to the table:
It has 3 legs on the back and two on the front. The top is solid wood. It wobbles both from front to back and side to side (front to back is worse). What can I do to minimize the wobble knowing that I have limited tools and experience in wood working?
I want to make the table sturdy by itself, so I don't want to screw it to the wall.
A solution with readily available materials and beginner friendly would be ideal. I enjoy solving problems like these, but I think in this case I lack the knowledge to figure out a good solution. Extra points for creative thinking.
wood table
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I made this table:
This is how the legs are attached to the table:
It has 3 legs on the back and two on the front. The top is solid wood. It wobbles both from front to back and side to side (front to back is worse). What can I do to minimize the wobble knowing that I have limited tools and experience in wood working?
I want to make the table sturdy by itself, so I don't want to screw it to the wall.
A solution with readily available materials and beginner friendly would be ideal. I enjoy solving problems like these, but I think in this case I lack the knowledge to figure out a good solution. Extra points for creative thinking.
wood table
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
When you say wobble, do you mean it sways or rocks? Rocks being that the feet aren't all touching the floor at the same time while swaying being that you can push the table top and it moves more than it should while all feet are touching the floor. If swaying, you'll need cross support like Harper suggested.
– HazardousGlitch
2 hours ago
I mean it sways. Has I said in response to his comment, the problem is I don't know how to do it and I can't find any information on how to do it with the legs I have.
– Meruje
2 hours ago
Can you weld? If so that is the strongest self standing way to sure up your table legs.
– David
56 mins ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I made this table:
This is how the legs are attached to the table:
It has 3 legs on the back and two on the front. The top is solid wood. It wobbles both from front to back and side to side (front to back is worse). What can I do to minimize the wobble knowing that I have limited tools and experience in wood working?
I want to make the table sturdy by itself, so I don't want to screw it to the wall.
A solution with readily available materials and beginner friendly would be ideal. I enjoy solving problems like these, but I think in this case I lack the knowledge to figure out a good solution. Extra points for creative thinking.
wood table
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I made this table:
This is how the legs are attached to the table:
It has 3 legs on the back and two on the front. The top is solid wood. It wobbles both from front to back and side to side (front to back is worse). What can I do to minimize the wobble knowing that I have limited tools and experience in wood working?
I want to make the table sturdy by itself, so I don't want to screw it to the wall.
A solution with readily available materials and beginner friendly would be ideal. I enjoy solving problems like these, but I think in this case I lack the knowledge to figure out a good solution. Extra points for creative thinking.
wood table
wood table
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
asked 3 hours ago
Meruje
62
62
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Meruje is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
When you say wobble, do you mean it sways or rocks? Rocks being that the feet aren't all touching the floor at the same time while swaying being that you can push the table top and it moves more than it should while all feet are touching the floor. If swaying, you'll need cross support like Harper suggested.
– HazardousGlitch
2 hours ago
I mean it sways. Has I said in response to his comment, the problem is I don't know how to do it and I can't find any information on how to do it with the legs I have.
– Meruje
2 hours ago
Can you weld? If so that is the strongest self standing way to sure up your table legs.
– David
56 mins ago
add a comment |
When you say wobble, do you mean it sways or rocks? Rocks being that the feet aren't all touching the floor at the same time while swaying being that you can push the table top and it moves more than it should while all feet are touching the floor. If swaying, you'll need cross support like Harper suggested.
– HazardousGlitch
2 hours ago
I mean it sways. Has I said in response to his comment, the problem is I don't know how to do it and I can't find any information on how to do it with the legs I have.
– Meruje
2 hours ago
Can you weld? If so that is the strongest self standing way to sure up your table legs.
– David
56 mins ago
When you say wobble, do you mean it sways or rocks? Rocks being that the feet aren't all touching the floor at the same time while swaying being that you can push the table top and it moves more than it should while all feet are touching the floor. If swaying, you'll need cross support like Harper suggested.
– HazardousGlitch
2 hours ago
When you say wobble, do you mean it sways or rocks? Rocks being that the feet aren't all touching the floor at the same time while swaying being that you can push the table top and it moves more than it should while all feet are touching the floor. If swaying, you'll need cross support like Harper suggested.
– HazardousGlitch
2 hours ago
I mean it sways. Has I said in response to his comment, the problem is I don't know how to do it and I can't find any information on how to do it with the legs I have.
– Meruje
2 hours ago
I mean it sways. Has I said in response to his comment, the problem is I don't know how to do it and I can't find any information on how to do it with the legs I have.
– Meruje
2 hours ago
Can you weld? If so that is the strongest self standing way to sure up your table legs.
– David
56 mins ago
Can you weld? If so that is the strongest self standing way to sure up your table legs.
– David
56 mins ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
Your table and legs and floor are turning into parallelograms. This is because the legs have no resistance against swinging on their mounts.
I suspect that these legs are not designed to prevent this, because they expect the desk surface will be anchored in both dimensions by something else, e.g. Being attached to a wall.
You will either need to select different legs, or find a way to brace these. This is why most desks and chairs have some sort of cross bracing between legs, but you need more than that, or you'll just have more parallelograms.
If it were me, I would use steel angled shelf brackets that have a nice triangle shape to them, and drill and tap appropriate machine screws into the legs, using the steel in the legs to hold the screws. I would not drill through the hollow legs and use a bolt and nut, because all that would do is squash the hollow leg. You would need to learn the fine art of using a hand tap, and it would also help to get centerpunches to get the pilot holes in the right place, but that is not excessively hard. Just tedious.
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
That's exactly what I was thinking from other posts I've read, but I have no idea how to brace the legs or what I can use to do it. Maybe something like this would help, between the legs and table top: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f585248a0b351faabb0e6533fdf331d5/… But how can I make this with the legs I have?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
@Meruje - If you have a friend that knows welding they might be able to help. Something as simple as connecting the legs to each other part way down could help.
– IronEagle
2 hours ago
@IronEagle Also another thought that passed through my mind, but unfortunately I don't know anyone who knows how to weld. Is there anything I can find at a hardware store that can fulfill the same purpose, without having to weld?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
A quick and cheap fix is getting some angle metal, aluminum or slotted steel, from a hardware store and screwing it between each set of legs at a angle, not straight. 45 degrees works well. Only need one piece between each set of legs. Be sure to get self-tapping screws as well so they will screw into the legs fairly easily.
– HazardousGlitch
1 hour ago
@ Merjue - angle iron, like mentioned above, could work well. Joints could be screwed or bolted, instead of being welded. Or perhaps threaded rod between the legs, with a pipe as a spacer? Given how the table legs are attached to the top, some more square tubing attached by bolting a flush T fitting for square tubing (something like this: teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/… )
– IronEagle
1 hour ago
|
show 1 more comment
up vote
1
down vote
Since the table is wide and not very thick, even were you to correct the issue now, it likely would warp a bit over time -- specifically, the middle of the side with two legs will sink slightly. Therefore, any remedy should be adjustable to compensate for that sag.
You could buy and install adjustable furniture levelers, or you could devise your own, depending on the design of the legs... or, for the three back legs, which are out of the way, insert thin siding shingles or similar inclined planes, which can be pushed in as needed (nothing would be needed for the front legs, if you don't mind a slight slant towards the front).
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
I've tried putting some cardboard beneath some of the legs, but I don't think it's a leveling problem, but rather a structural problem since there is no bracing between legs. I've also added two steel strips to the under side of the table to avoid the middle from sinking. You can see one of them in the second image. Still, thanks for the suggestion
– Meruje
2 hours ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
Your table and legs and floor are turning into parallelograms. This is because the legs have no resistance against swinging on their mounts.
I suspect that these legs are not designed to prevent this, because they expect the desk surface will be anchored in both dimensions by something else, e.g. Being attached to a wall.
You will either need to select different legs, or find a way to brace these. This is why most desks and chairs have some sort of cross bracing between legs, but you need more than that, or you'll just have more parallelograms.
If it were me, I would use steel angled shelf brackets that have a nice triangle shape to them, and drill and tap appropriate machine screws into the legs, using the steel in the legs to hold the screws. I would not drill through the hollow legs and use a bolt and nut, because all that would do is squash the hollow leg. You would need to learn the fine art of using a hand tap, and it would also help to get centerpunches to get the pilot holes in the right place, but that is not excessively hard. Just tedious.
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
That's exactly what I was thinking from other posts I've read, but I have no idea how to brace the legs or what I can use to do it. Maybe something like this would help, between the legs and table top: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f585248a0b351faabb0e6533fdf331d5/… But how can I make this with the legs I have?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
@Meruje - If you have a friend that knows welding they might be able to help. Something as simple as connecting the legs to each other part way down could help.
– IronEagle
2 hours ago
@IronEagle Also another thought that passed through my mind, but unfortunately I don't know anyone who knows how to weld. Is there anything I can find at a hardware store that can fulfill the same purpose, without having to weld?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
A quick and cheap fix is getting some angle metal, aluminum or slotted steel, from a hardware store and screwing it between each set of legs at a angle, not straight. 45 degrees works well. Only need one piece between each set of legs. Be sure to get self-tapping screws as well so they will screw into the legs fairly easily.
– HazardousGlitch
1 hour ago
@ Merjue - angle iron, like mentioned above, could work well. Joints could be screwed or bolted, instead of being welded. Or perhaps threaded rod between the legs, with a pipe as a spacer? Given how the table legs are attached to the top, some more square tubing attached by bolting a flush T fitting for square tubing (something like this: teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/… )
– IronEagle
1 hour ago
|
show 1 more comment
up vote
3
down vote
Your table and legs and floor are turning into parallelograms. This is because the legs have no resistance against swinging on their mounts.
I suspect that these legs are not designed to prevent this, because they expect the desk surface will be anchored in both dimensions by something else, e.g. Being attached to a wall.
You will either need to select different legs, or find a way to brace these. This is why most desks and chairs have some sort of cross bracing between legs, but you need more than that, or you'll just have more parallelograms.
If it were me, I would use steel angled shelf brackets that have a nice triangle shape to them, and drill and tap appropriate machine screws into the legs, using the steel in the legs to hold the screws. I would not drill through the hollow legs and use a bolt and nut, because all that would do is squash the hollow leg. You would need to learn the fine art of using a hand tap, and it would also help to get centerpunches to get the pilot holes in the right place, but that is not excessively hard. Just tedious.
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
That's exactly what I was thinking from other posts I've read, but I have no idea how to brace the legs or what I can use to do it. Maybe something like this would help, between the legs and table top: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f585248a0b351faabb0e6533fdf331d5/… But how can I make this with the legs I have?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
@Meruje - If you have a friend that knows welding they might be able to help. Something as simple as connecting the legs to each other part way down could help.
– IronEagle
2 hours ago
@IronEagle Also another thought that passed through my mind, but unfortunately I don't know anyone who knows how to weld. Is there anything I can find at a hardware store that can fulfill the same purpose, without having to weld?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
A quick and cheap fix is getting some angle metal, aluminum or slotted steel, from a hardware store and screwing it between each set of legs at a angle, not straight. 45 degrees works well. Only need one piece between each set of legs. Be sure to get self-tapping screws as well so they will screw into the legs fairly easily.
– HazardousGlitch
1 hour ago
@ Merjue - angle iron, like mentioned above, could work well. Joints could be screwed or bolted, instead of being welded. Or perhaps threaded rod between the legs, with a pipe as a spacer? Given how the table legs are attached to the top, some more square tubing attached by bolting a flush T fitting for square tubing (something like this: teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/… )
– IronEagle
1 hour ago
|
show 1 more comment
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
Your table and legs and floor are turning into parallelograms. This is because the legs have no resistance against swinging on their mounts.
I suspect that these legs are not designed to prevent this, because they expect the desk surface will be anchored in both dimensions by something else, e.g. Being attached to a wall.
You will either need to select different legs, or find a way to brace these. This is why most desks and chairs have some sort of cross bracing between legs, but you need more than that, or you'll just have more parallelograms.
If it were me, I would use steel angled shelf brackets that have a nice triangle shape to them, and drill and tap appropriate machine screws into the legs, using the steel in the legs to hold the screws. I would not drill through the hollow legs and use a bolt and nut, because all that would do is squash the hollow leg. You would need to learn the fine art of using a hand tap, and it would also help to get centerpunches to get the pilot holes in the right place, but that is not excessively hard. Just tedious.
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
Your table and legs and floor are turning into parallelograms. This is because the legs have no resistance against swinging on their mounts.
I suspect that these legs are not designed to prevent this, because they expect the desk surface will be anchored in both dimensions by something else, e.g. Being attached to a wall.
You will either need to select different legs, or find a way to brace these. This is why most desks and chairs have some sort of cross bracing between legs, but you need more than that, or you'll just have more parallelograms.
If it were me, I would use steel angled shelf brackets that have a nice triangle shape to them, and drill and tap appropriate machine screws into the legs, using the steel in the legs to hold the screws. I would not drill through the hollow legs and use a bolt and nut, because all that would do is squash the hollow leg. You would need to learn the fine art of using a hand tap, and it would also help to get centerpunches to get the pilot holes in the right place, but that is not excessively hard. Just tedious.
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
edited 2 hours ago
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
answered 3 hours ago
Harper
64k341130
64k341130
That's exactly what I was thinking from other posts I've read, but I have no idea how to brace the legs or what I can use to do it. Maybe something like this would help, between the legs and table top: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f585248a0b351faabb0e6533fdf331d5/… But how can I make this with the legs I have?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
@Meruje - If you have a friend that knows welding they might be able to help. Something as simple as connecting the legs to each other part way down could help.
– IronEagle
2 hours ago
@IronEagle Also another thought that passed through my mind, but unfortunately I don't know anyone who knows how to weld. Is there anything I can find at a hardware store that can fulfill the same purpose, without having to weld?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
A quick and cheap fix is getting some angle metal, aluminum or slotted steel, from a hardware store and screwing it between each set of legs at a angle, not straight. 45 degrees works well. Only need one piece between each set of legs. Be sure to get self-tapping screws as well so they will screw into the legs fairly easily.
– HazardousGlitch
1 hour ago
@ Merjue - angle iron, like mentioned above, could work well. Joints could be screwed or bolted, instead of being welded. Or perhaps threaded rod between the legs, with a pipe as a spacer? Given how the table legs are attached to the top, some more square tubing attached by bolting a flush T fitting for square tubing (something like this: teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/… )
– IronEagle
1 hour ago
|
show 1 more comment
That's exactly what I was thinking from other posts I've read, but I have no idea how to brace the legs or what I can use to do it. Maybe something like this would help, between the legs and table top: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f585248a0b351faabb0e6533fdf331d5/… But how can I make this with the legs I have?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
@Meruje - If you have a friend that knows welding they might be able to help. Something as simple as connecting the legs to each other part way down could help.
– IronEagle
2 hours ago
@IronEagle Also another thought that passed through my mind, but unfortunately I don't know anyone who knows how to weld. Is there anything I can find at a hardware store that can fulfill the same purpose, without having to weld?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
A quick and cheap fix is getting some angle metal, aluminum or slotted steel, from a hardware store and screwing it between each set of legs at a angle, not straight. 45 degrees works well. Only need one piece between each set of legs. Be sure to get self-tapping screws as well so they will screw into the legs fairly easily.
– HazardousGlitch
1 hour ago
@ Merjue - angle iron, like mentioned above, could work well. Joints could be screwed or bolted, instead of being welded. Or perhaps threaded rod between the legs, with a pipe as a spacer? Given how the table legs are attached to the top, some more square tubing attached by bolting a flush T fitting for square tubing (something like this: teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/… )
– IronEagle
1 hour ago
That's exactly what I was thinking from other posts I've read, but I have no idea how to brace the legs or what I can use to do it. Maybe something like this would help, between the legs and table top: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f585248a0b351faabb0e6533fdf331d5/… But how can I make this with the legs I have?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
That's exactly what I was thinking from other posts I've read, but I have no idea how to brace the legs or what I can use to do it. Maybe something like this would help, between the legs and table top: 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/f585248a0b351faabb0e6533fdf331d5/… But how can I make this with the legs I have?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
@Meruje - If you have a friend that knows welding they might be able to help. Something as simple as connecting the legs to each other part way down could help.
– IronEagle
2 hours ago
@Meruje - If you have a friend that knows welding they might be able to help. Something as simple as connecting the legs to each other part way down could help.
– IronEagle
2 hours ago
@IronEagle Also another thought that passed through my mind, but unfortunately I don't know anyone who knows how to weld. Is there anything I can find at a hardware store that can fulfill the same purpose, without having to weld?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
@IronEagle Also another thought that passed through my mind, but unfortunately I don't know anyone who knows how to weld. Is there anything I can find at a hardware store that can fulfill the same purpose, without having to weld?
– Meruje
2 hours ago
A quick and cheap fix is getting some angle metal, aluminum or slotted steel, from a hardware store and screwing it between each set of legs at a angle, not straight. 45 degrees works well. Only need one piece between each set of legs. Be sure to get self-tapping screws as well so they will screw into the legs fairly easily.
– HazardousGlitch
1 hour ago
A quick and cheap fix is getting some angle metal, aluminum or slotted steel, from a hardware store and screwing it between each set of legs at a angle, not straight. 45 degrees works well. Only need one piece between each set of legs. Be sure to get self-tapping screws as well so they will screw into the legs fairly easily.
– HazardousGlitch
1 hour ago
@ Merjue - angle iron, like mentioned above, could work well. Joints could be screwed or bolted, instead of being welded. Or perhaps threaded rod between the legs, with a pipe as a spacer? Given how the table legs are attached to the top, some more square tubing attached by bolting a flush T fitting for square tubing (something like this: teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/… )
– IronEagle
1 hour ago
@ Merjue - angle iron, like mentioned above, could work well. Joints could be screwed or bolted, instead of being welded. Or perhaps threaded rod between the legs, with a pipe as a spacer? Given how the table legs are attached to the top, some more square tubing attached by bolting a flush T fitting for square tubing (something like this: teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/… )
– IronEagle
1 hour ago
|
show 1 more comment
up vote
1
down vote
Since the table is wide and not very thick, even were you to correct the issue now, it likely would warp a bit over time -- specifically, the middle of the side with two legs will sink slightly. Therefore, any remedy should be adjustable to compensate for that sag.
You could buy and install adjustable furniture levelers, or you could devise your own, depending on the design of the legs... or, for the three back legs, which are out of the way, insert thin siding shingles or similar inclined planes, which can be pushed in as needed (nothing would be needed for the front legs, if you don't mind a slight slant towards the front).
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
I've tried putting some cardboard beneath some of the legs, but I don't think it's a leveling problem, but rather a structural problem since there is no bracing between legs. I've also added two steel strips to the under side of the table to avoid the middle from sinking. You can see one of them in the second image. Still, thanks for the suggestion
– Meruje
2 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
Since the table is wide and not very thick, even were you to correct the issue now, it likely would warp a bit over time -- specifically, the middle of the side with two legs will sink slightly. Therefore, any remedy should be adjustable to compensate for that sag.
You could buy and install adjustable furniture levelers, or you could devise your own, depending on the design of the legs... or, for the three back legs, which are out of the way, insert thin siding shingles or similar inclined planes, which can be pushed in as needed (nothing would be needed for the front legs, if you don't mind a slight slant towards the front).
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
I've tried putting some cardboard beneath some of the legs, but I don't think it's a leveling problem, but rather a structural problem since there is no bracing between legs. I've also added two steel strips to the under side of the table to avoid the middle from sinking. You can see one of them in the second image. Still, thanks for the suggestion
– Meruje
2 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Since the table is wide and not very thick, even were you to correct the issue now, it likely would warp a bit over time -- specifically, the middle of the side with two legs will sink slightly. Therefore, any remedy should be adjustable to compensate for that sag.
You could buy and install adjustable furniture levelers, or you could devise your own, depending on the design of the legs... or, for the three back legs, which are out of the way, insert thin siding shingles or similar inclined planes, which can be pushed in as needed (nothing would be needed for the front legs, if you don't mind a slight slant towards the front).
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
Since the table is wide and not very thick, even were you to correct the issue now, it likely would warp a bit over time -- specifically, the middle of the side with two legs will sink slightly. Therefore, any remedy should be adjustable to compensate for that sag.
You could buy and install adjustable furniture levelers, or you could devise your own, depending on the design of the legs... or, for the three back legs, which are out of the way, insert thin siding shingles or similar inclined planes, which can be pushed in as needed (nothing would be needed for the front legs, if you don't mind a slight slant towards the front).
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
answered 2 hours ago
DrMoishe Pippik
76637
76637
I've tried putting some cardboard beneath some of the legs, but I don't think it's a leveling problem, but rather a structural problem since there is no bracing between legs. I've also added two steel strips to the under side of the table to avoid the middle from sinking. You can see one of them in the second image. Still, thanks for the suggestion
– Meruje
2 hours ago
add a comment |
I've tried putting some cardboard beneath some of the legs, but I don't think it's a leveling problem, but rather a structural problem since there is no bracing between legs. I've also added two steel strips to the under side of the table to avoid the middle from sinking. You can see one of them in the second image. Still, thanks for the suggestion
– Meruje
2 hours ago
I've tried putting some cardboard beneath some of the legs, but I don't think it's a leveling problem, but rather a structural problem since there is no bracing between legs. I've also added two steel strips to the under side of the table to avoid the middle from sinking. You can see one of them in the second image. Still, thanks for the suggestion
– Meruje
2 hours ago
I've tried putting some cardboard beneath some of the legs, but I don't think it's a leveling problem, but rather a structural problem since there is no bracing between legs. I've also added two steel strips to the under side of the table to avoid the middle from sinking. You can see one of them in the second image. Still, thanks for the suggestion
– Meruje
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Meruje is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Meruje is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Meruje is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Meruje is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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When you say wobble, do you mean it sways or rocks? Rocks being that the feet aren't all touching the floor at the same time while swaying being that you can push the table top and it moves more than it should while all feet are touching the floor. If swaying, you'll need cross support like Harper suggested.
– HazardousGlitch
2 hours ago
I mean it sways. Has I said in response to his comment, the problem is I don't know how to do it and I can't find any information on how to do it with the legs I have.
– Meruje
2 hours ago
Can you weld? If so that is the strongest self standing way to sure up your table legs.
– David
56 mins ago